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JOHN BARROW CLIMBS
MOUNTAINS AROUND ESKDALE, c1880


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John Barrow's "Mountain Ascents in Westmoreland & Cumberland" (1885) is neither a guide-book nor a tour journal, but a series of records of ascents made by the author at various times, arranged geographically by the centres where he was staying. It seems he never actually stayed in Eskdale- every one of these ascents is made from outside the valley, so I have omitted most route details. Barrow does, however, provide a few interesting details (particularly on botany).

GREAT END    SCAFELL PIKE    HARTER FELL    BOWFELL


Great End (from Borrowdale)
It was very gusty and raw cold on the summit, the approach to which is a stiff climb over a chaotic mass of stones, many reminding me of those on Scawfell Pikes, some of which I think I have described as resembling concrete. The mosses are beautiful, many of a velveteen texture of dark and light green, and the beautiful staghorn moss is always attractive. As I am not writing a guide book, I shall say no more about Great End, but recommend others to visit this rarely-ascended mountain, the precipices of which are remarkably grand.

Scawfell Pike (from Borrowdale)
The route crosses Esk House, and hence to the summit the way is over rocky ground, a confused mass as we approach the summit, but all firm footing, the stones being strongly imbedded and resting firmly on each other, with scarcely a loose rock. From their weather-beaten appearance, and lichen on their surface, they seem to have been many a long day in their present position.

Harter Fell, ascent from Cockley Beck
From the Farm House at Cockley Beck it occupied an hour and three quarters to reach the summit of Harter Fell, on which the Staghorn Moss, Alpine Moss, and Club Moss were very plentiful, as also the Prickly Moss. Some of the Velveteen Mosses (a name I have given them, as they precisely resemble this article), were very lovely, from the lightest green, to the darkest. The summit is much broken up, and the rocks very fine; a series of Crags being passed before reaching the highest point. [Describes view] ... returned by the Yew Dale Valley.

Bowfell, ascent from Borrowdale
Leaving Seathwaite at 11.30 a.m., we arrived at Sty Head Tarn in abuot an hour and twenty minutes, and walking on steadily reached the summit of Bowfell at 2.30 p.m. after a charming walk, again passing the beautiful Sprinkling Tarn, which flows into Sty Head Tarn. A ravine which the guides call Red Gill, consists of a bold chasm in the rocks, which being covered with parsley fern and moss are very picturesque.
The route to Bowfell passes under the grand cliffs of Great End, which are quite perpendicular, as also under the base of the Great Gable. Some of the finest mountain scenery is in this locality. The summit of Bowfell is of a broken rocky character, easy of ascent, the rocks being firmly embedded in the mossy ground. In an opening among the rocks, just below the summit in an easterly direction, Angle Tarn forms a pleasing object.
There was much mist all round, clearing off at intervals. The Langdale Pikes shewed up well. Scawfell Pike was visible for a short time, towering over all. We remained on the summit one hour ...