ESKDALE IN BLACK'S GUIDE, 1900 edition
An early edition of Blacks' Guide is reproduced on another page of this website. Here is the 23rd edition (published in 1900), "written and recast, so as to be practically a new work" under the editorship of A.R. Hope Moncreiff. The title too has undergone a makeover, losing the word "Picturesque" to become simply "Black's Guide to the English Lakes".
N.B. The frequent bold and italic emphases of place-names have been omitted from this transcript.
This fine valley is easily reached by rail from Seascale, and supplies more than one pleasant excursion.
We start along the coast, coming in a couple of miles to Drigg (Victoria Hotel close to station), a village that makes a bit of a watering-place. Between it and the sea is a chalybeate well of local repute. Another lion is a huge boulder stone on the shore; and the marsh here is noted as a thick breeding-ground of wild fowl, especially the black-headed gull. The river Irt, from Wastwater, flows by Drigg, joining the Mite and the Esk to make an estuary below the next station.
Ravenglass (Pennington Arms) is a small but ancient place, in Roman days a seaport of note. There are traces near of a Roman camp and a Roman villa. Muncaster is the name of the parish, borne also by the castle and fine park which lie behind the village, above the Esk. Muncaster Church contains two stained-glass windows, in memory of Lord Muncaster's unfortunate companions, murdered by Greek brigands in 1870, a tragedy not yet forgotten. The grounds are open to visitors every week-day from 2 to 6 p.m.
At Ravenglass Station we must change for the Eskdale Railway. Crossing the yard from the main line, where full-sized locomotives rush by with snorts of disdain, we reach the shed in which is stabled the iron pony that furnishes matter for so many jokes. Its narrow-gauge line gives us also a good deal of jolting for our money, and one often seems on the point of sticking fast, but the little engine does its best, and is most accommodating in its halts. The guard, like the crew of the Nancy Bell, cumulates the parts of station-master, booking-clerk, and all, getting off at each stop to serve out tickets, etc.
The first station is Muncaster. Here the railway begins to rise up the flank of a wooded fell, and has soon picturesque heights on either hand. At Irton Road, a scattered congregation of villas and cottages, we are fairly in Eskdale, a broad green strath between walls of craggy heights. The Orchard Temperance Hotel is half-way between this and the next station, Eskdale Green, a mile farther on. Then comes Beckfoot, where the Stanley Ghyll Hotel makes a considerable addition to the accommodation of the neighbourhood.
This is a place much visited for a sight of Dalegarth force on a rivulet coming down through the jaws of Stanley Ghyll. The way to it, about a mile, is easily found. At the little schoolhouse, below the station and hotel, a board directs to the farm where the key of the grounds may be had. Where the road crosses the Esk, look over the bridge into a remarkably deep and clear pool, in which salmon may sometimes be seen enjoying a bath that excites the envy of perspiring wayfarers. Within the grounds, the path soon divides, giving us the choice of a high or low walk, which presently communicate near the bottom of the falls, but the former may be continued for a peep down into the gorge, which is the finest part of the spectacle. The fall itself, though advertised as the "best of its kind in the country," does not strike one as any great thing; but the wooded ravine is well worth half an hour's walk. The path up it might be continued beyond the falls by an alpine climber; less agile visitors would do well to adventure no farther, but should go on at least to the second seat and not be deceived by the lower mouth of the force.
Boot (Inns: Woolpack, a mile above the station; Mason's Arms, nearer and smaller), the terminus of the little railway, is only a mile beyond Beckfoot. Either of these places makes a capital centre for pedestrians. A pony-track from Boot (6 miles) leads by Bummoor Tarn and round the Screes to Wastdale Head, where we might sometimes catch the afternoon coach back to Seascale. Since the opening of the railway, Boot has become a favourite base for ascending Scafell and Scafell Pike. Here we may provide him with a slight sketch of the upper part of the valley, by which he might pass over by Esk Hause to the central parts of Lakeland.
UPPER ESKDALE
This wild region, one of the grandest and most solitary in the Lake district, is traversed by few, owing to the absence of roads. After the Woolpack Inn above Boot, and one or two farmhouses near, all habitation ceases. But the pedestrian who tracks the valley upward to its summit at Esk Hause, and descends on the other side to Borrowdale, Langdale, or Wastdale, will have achieved one of the finest pass-walks to be made in England, while the climbs over Mickledore into Wastdale on the one side, and over the shoulder of Bowfell into Langdale on the other, present alternative routes of the very first order.
Two miles beyond Boot, the road leaves the valley to climb Hardknott Pass. Here
one must leave the road and follow the stream for about 2 miles more of tolerably level walking, the best path being on the left or east bank of the stream. This brings us to Esk Falls, formed by the junction of two streams which descend steeply from Bowfell and Scafell respectively. Up the branch on our right lies the route above-mentioned to Langdale. The other is the main stream, and its left bank is still to be followed. A bridge across the Falls enables one to cross if necessary, and the view from this point is in itself well worth a walk from Boot, even if one go no farther.
Those who proceed onward climb pretty steeply into the uppermost recess of Eskdale, and in about three-quarters of an hour more reach the foot of a fine cataract, Cam Spout, which descends frosn Mickledore, the ridge connecting Scafell with Scafell Pike, high up to the left. A steep climb of some 1500 feet would bring one to the top of this ridge, from which the descent is plain into Wastdale by Lingmell Ghyll; while a farther climb of twenty minutes to the right from Mickledore would attain the summit of Scafell Pike. Those, again, who wish to return from Cam Spout to Boot can find a more direct way back high on the western side of the valley, avoiding Esk Falls altogether, and this is in itself a fine round. Lastly, those who explore the very head of Eskdale, destitute beyond Cam Spout of any traces of a path, will climb the grassy slope to Esk Hause, a height of nearly 2500 feet, and descending a distance of some 400 yards on the other side, may reach the "shelter" mentioned in our routes from Langdale and Borrowdale. The whole journey from Boot to the shelter will occupy two to three hours walking, and a fine day should certainly be chosen for this expedition, otherwise it is easy to wander hopelessly astray among these remote solitudes.
To walk back from Boot to Seascale would be a matter of under a dozen miles, with the train to help one at various points. One may have to walk part of the way, since the evening train, as if exhausted by its exertions, does not- or did not- come farther than Eskdale Green (Beckfoot in August). From Boot to Eskdale Green, the road running below the little railway, by the King of Prussia inn, is a short 3 miles, and another mile brings one to Irton Road Station along the line, the road having crossed to make a considerable curve above it Here the train could be taken as far as Muncaster, from which it would be 4 miles to cut across to Drigg. But a sturdy walker might hold on all the way and beat the train into Seascale, if the latter be handicapped by a wait at Ravenglass.
The road from Irton Bridge soon forks at an illegible guide-post. The branch uphill to the right is the high way by Santon Bridge; but that to the left, though too rough in places to be recommended to cyclists, will serve the pedestrian better, leading him by the telegraph posts to Drigg in under 6 miles. Irton Hall and Irton Church are thus left on the right; then after more than 4 miles' tramp, he strikes into the road from Muncaster ...
SCAFELL PIKE (3210 feet) and SCAFELL (3162 feet)
Scafell Pike, the summit of the Scafell range, is the loftiest ground in England, and most tourists to the Lakes will desire to climb it. It can be reached from Ambleside via Langdale, from Keswick via Borrowdale, or most directly of all from the little village of Wastdale Head. The way from Ambleside and Langdale has been already described as far as Esk Hawse [not included in this extract]. It remains to indicate the route from Keswick and Borrowdale to the same point, where the ascent proper of the mountain begins.
By driving the 9 miles between Keswick and Seathwaite the expedition can be brought within manageable compass. From any part of Borrowdale the distance is of course considerably reduced. But even from Seathwaite, the farthest point of the driving-road; there is still a climb which will occupy some four hours to the summit of Scafell Pike alone. A whole day should therefore be devoted to the excursion, and a fine day is most desirable on all grounds. Ponies can be ridden nearly to the top, and left to await the return.
For the first mile beyond Seathwaite the path up the valley is followed to Stockley Bridge. Hence pedestrians may take a short cut up Grain Ghyll in front. There is some rough ground, especially at the top, but by keeping the west side of the stream throughout, or preferably by crossing it about half-way up and aiming more directly for Esk Hause, no difficulty need be experienced. The pony route, which is on the whole more interesting- the other might be kept for descending- follows the Styhead path nearly to the summit of the pass, and then strikes off to the left, a little above the stream that flows into the tarn. The point of divergence is not clearly marked, but the general direction is unmistakable, the stream being followed as far as another lakelet, "Sprinkling Tarn," with the massive cliffs of Great End in front on the right. The path soon reappears, and crosses the stream twice, the second time close to Sprinkling Tarn. Leaving the latter on the left, we next open out a beautiful view in the same direction over Borrowdale and Derwentwater down Grain Ghyll (here called Ruddy Ghyll, from the colour of its rock). Having now joined the shorter route from Stockley Bridge, we continue ascending steadily, inclining at first rather to the right. In about 2 hours from Seathwaite, we find ourselves at Esk Hause, a low ridge between Allen Crags on the left and the Scafell range on the right.
Were we to continue forward in the same direction, we should come to Angle Tarn and Rossett Ghyll, and so down to Langdale. If we diverged to the left too much en route, we should get down into the Lang Strath or east branch of Upper Borrowdale. Esk Hause, the water-shed between Borrowdale and Eskdale, is thus the meeting-place of many routes, and it is important to have this clearly in mind. Till lately, two or three cairns of stone were all the landmarks to go by. Now, however, a recently erected shelter serves to identify the spot, as well as offering protection from a possible storm.
The actual summit of the Hause (2490 feet) is a little above us to the right, the difference in elevation not exceeding 100 feet. The view from about the shelter is a grand one in itself, and it is well worth coming this way from Wastdale or Borrowdale to Langdale, even if the farther climb of the mountain be not attempted.
For Scafell Pike, however, we turn to the right, and ascend the height to the west of Esk Hause, the path leading at first towards Great End, then bending rather to the left, and mounting a green slope to the beginning of the final ridge. Here the summit-cairn comes in sight, still a good way off, and ponies must be left. The outlook now widens in front: notice at one point a peep of Crummock Water between Great Gable and Kirkfell. The remainder of the climb is along the ridge, passing over two intervening "pikes" before the third and highest is reached. The ground is rough and broken, and in bad weather it may be difficult to keep the path, which, however, is marked by piles of stones at short intervals. In fine weather the views are splendid, and reconcile one to the up-and-down work involved in crossing the smaller "pikes." The summit-cairn will be reached in about an hour from Esk Hause.
The view from the top is very fine, yet less extensive than from a more central summit like Helvellyn, and less varied than from many a height of much less altitude. Derwentwater, Windermere, and Wastwater are the chief lakes visible, and these not in tbeir entirety. But all the principal mountains of the district are in sight, and the "sea of hill-tops" on all sides is wild in the extreme. The savage grandeur of the immediate foreground, tbe profound depths of Eskdale and Wastdale, and the wide outlook over lesser hills in almost every direction, combine to make up a most impressive prospect, which can be enjoyed in almost equal fulness from many other points of the ridge.
To the south, the view is blocked by the sister height of Scafell, separated from us by a chasm of considerable depth, the connecting ridge across which is named Mickledore. A descent should be made for a short way in this direction, to admire the frowning and apparently inaccessible cliffs of Scafell. Then the traveller who is returning to Borrowdale or Langdale must retrace his steps as far as Esk Hause, no short cut to either being practicable. The top of Great End (2984 feet) may be visited on the way without much extra climbing, and the view from it over Borrowdale is extremely fine. From Esk Hause the various routes downward have been sufficiently described already.
For Lower Eskdale or Wastdale, on the other hand, we descend to Mickledore, one of the wildest spots in the district. From here the descent to Eskdale is made on the left of the ridge, by a slope of great abruptness but not precipitous, and the narrow valley-floor is reached some 1500 feet below. On the right, the slope, at the top rough with screes requiring careful descent, leads down Lingmell Ghyll to Wastwater. (One can also descend from the summit over the head of Lingmell.) By descending this ghyll for some distance, the sides of Scafell can be ascended without difficulty. The more direct ascent of Scafell from the Mickledore chasm involves hard scrambling or dangerous climbing. The least difficult route is up Lord's Rake, a steep gully on the Wastwater side, floored with loose screes. Those who wish to risk their necks on the other routes are referred to Hasket-Smith's Climbing in the British Isles (Part I., England), where ample information is given, and a word of needful caution added against attempting such climbs without proper knowledge and precautions. The Scafell cliffs have already been the scene of more than one fatal accident.
The descent to Wastwater by the Lingmell Ghyll is perfectly easy. That by Pier's Ghyll cannot be recommended, as even good climbers have been known to get "crag-fast" among its difficulties. It is possible to descend Lingmell Ghyll to the foot, and then turn to the right for Wastwater along a cart-track; but a short cut across the lower slopes of Lingmell should be preferred. In ascending it is certainly better to keep well round the hill by the ravine, as the direct climb up the steep slope is tiring and saves no time. From the head of Lingmell Ghyll the ascent can be made either by Micklsdore, or up the slope on the left of the summit. The ascent of Scafell Pike from Wastwater occupies about two hours.
Scafell is climbed from Wastwater by proceeding past the mouth of Lingmell Ghyll on the cart-road, and then striking up to the left. It can also be reached from Boot in Eskdale by a long climb up its sloping shoulder. Many people consider it a finer mountain than the "Pikes," and certainly its cliffs overhanging Eskdale surpass anything on the loftier mountain- only 50 feet loftier, indeed. It is probable that Scafell first attracted attention, and that the name was extended from it to the ridge beyond, the sharp points in which were called the "Pikes of Scafell." For long, indeed, many people contended that its summit was the highest point of the range. The ascent from Wastwater will take about the same time as that of the Pike.
CRINKLE CRAGS AND BOWFELL (FROM LANGDALE)
We have still to deal with the head of the valley, and with the recess which runs up to Crinkle Crags. The latter, named Oxendale, affords pleasant excursions. Cross the bridge opposite the old hotel, and take the cart-road for half a mile to the farm-house of Stool End. Here the road stops, but it is easy to follow the valley for about a mile farther up to a point where three "ghylls" join to form the stream we have been ascending. Active tourists can visit each of these, though not without some steep climbing. The one most to the left is Brownie or Brown Ghyll, which descends from a hollow at the back of Pike O'Blisco (2304 feet). This ravine may be ascended to its head, and the return made over the top of Pike O'Blisco and down Kettle Ghyll to the farm at the foot of the Blea Tarn road; or from the top of the ravine we may descend to the summit of the Wrynose Pass. The central of the three is Crinkle Ghyll, descending in front from the crags of that name. This also can be explored for some distance. But the finest of the three is Hell (=clear) Ghyll, descending from Bowfell, and forming the best approach to that mountain. (It is worth while exploring this at least as far as a fine waterfall no great way up from where the three unite.) Either bank of the stream may be followed- opinions differing as to which is best, but by either it is a steep scramble. A climb of 2 hours from Dungeon Ghyll, however, should take us to the top of the Ghyll, where we strike the ridge of Bowfell at a spot known as the "Three Tarns," from three little pools lying close together.
From this spot an ample choice of routes awaits us. We may turn to the left, and traverse the wild ridge of the Crinkle Crags (highest point 2816 feet), with wonderful views on both sides, descending beyond the Crags to the top of Brown Ghyll mentioned above. If the ridge of the crags offer difficulty, keep tightly to the Eskdale side.) Or, descending the hollow in front of us, we may follow the stream in it down to Esk Falls. Or, lastly, turning to the right, we may in about twenty minutes scramble to the top of Bowfell (2960 feet), one of the highest and finest mountains in the district, from whose summit the Langdale Pikes look comparatively insignificant. The prospect from the top is a glorious one- Scafell and Great Gable being seen in all their grandeur, while in addition to the wide distant panorama there is a specially fine near view of the valleys on either side. From Bowfell we may either return to Oxendale, cutting off a little of the angle we made in ascending by making directly for Stool End Farm (the first rocks alone present any difficulty); or may continue along the ridge toward Esk Hause, reaching it in little over a mile of mountain walking, or making a shorter descent at Ewer Gap to the head of Rossett Ghyll ...
