William Green's "Guide to the Lakes &c." (the full title actually starts with "The Tourist's New Guide"... and continues for quite some time) was published in 1818-19 as two illustrated volumes- and included references to an earlier volume of pictures by Green, an artist based in Ambleside. The work is part guide, part travelogue, as the Eskdale extracts clearly illustrate:
Volume 1, page 115-:
"... in magnificence of mountain precipice, Ennerdale-dale, Wastdale, and Eskdale, excel all others in the country.
Early on the morning after the drawings were made at the wooden bridge and Goldrill crag [in the Duddon valley], the writer was joined by his friend Mr. Dawson [William Dawson, of Throng in Dunnerdale], who conducted him by a mountain-road to Birker force, in Eskdale.
Birker force is seen on the left out of the road from Ambleside to Wast Water, pouring down the side of the hill, and from many stands is an object of great curiosity. In a rainy season the torrent is immense, and its rocky cheeks of a grander and more expanded dimension than those of any other water-fall in Cumberland. The artist chose for a foreground to this singular piece of nature, a picturesque combination of rocks and trees, forming altogether a subject of considerable interest.
On the same side of the hill, but lower down the valley, is Stanley Gill, a scene bearing not the slightest resemblance to Birker Force. Stanley Gill is 48 of the large etchings [a reference to the earlier volume of pictures].
When the traveller is in Eskdale, and about sixteen miles from Ambleside, on his road to Wastdale, he will be near an ancient building called Dale Garth Hall, and if he should have the curiosity to see Stanley Gill, he may have access to it by applying at the Hall. The water-fall part of the Gill, is more than half a mile on the left.
The late George Edward Stanley, Esq., of Ponsonby, (to whose son, Edward Stanley, Esq., of Ponsonby, this property now belongs,) made an excellent foot road on the banks of the Gill, which road three times changes sides by three bridges crossing the channel; and this, with other improvements, are highly creditable to the late proprietor.
The chasm is awfully sublime, the rocks rising almost perpendicularly over their bases, from the grisly sides of which impend trees i the richest wildness. The mountains of Eskdale and Wastdale are fine distances, as seen out of the chasm on returning to the Hall; Schofell is the principal.
Having finished the sketch of Birker Force, the shepherd and the draftsman proceeded to Stanley Gill, when, after half an hour's conversation and drawing, the friendly shepherd departed for his home in a declining sun, but it was nearly dark before the laborious representation of the immense chasm was completed; no time was then lost in journeying to Irton Hall, the seat of E.L. Irton Esq. ... Having spent several succeeding days at Wast Water, the writer, on his return, through the recommendation of Mr Irton, was kindly received at the house of Mr John Towers, of Toes. Toes is the highest house in Eskdale on the western side of the river Esk, here he had intended to have passed a few days in the study of the high mountains at the head of the valley, but, as in all human affairs, the best arranged plans must give way to circumstances, so must the man of art with a firm and patient endurance, support the many disappointments occasioned by changes of weather- not to speak of the expence in money, he may expend weeks in gazing at the heavens, when there is little more of earth in view than the level fields around him.
In the night, howling winds and rain beating against the window proclaimed a change of weather, and in the morning, though the winds had abated, the rain continued to deluge the valley with little intermission the whole of that day, and till about ten the following morning, when though the mountains were enveloped in one thick and solemn gloom, it wahs again fair, but as it did not promise to remain so, the artist gave up his projected return by Walna Scar and Coniston, and having taken leave of his new friends, he passed the valley, and commenced his ascent, but in returning up Hardknot was incommoded by showers. From the summit of the hill he slanted on the right of the road down to Black Hall, where he found the good humoured family at dinner on mountain mutton..."
Volume 2, page 262-:
"At Cockley Beck Bridge, ten miles and a half from Ambleside, the road enters Cumberland. This bridge is at the foot of Hard Knott; to the top of which, it is rather steep. The prospect backward, is on the grand mountains of Seathwaite and Coniston.
The descent from the top of Hard Knott shows through the screening sides of considerable acclivities, the beautiful vale of Esk, terminated at the distance of twelve miles in the neighbourhood of Muncaster and Ravenglass, by the sea. In fine weather, the Isle of Man may be observed. Something more than half way down the hill, about one hundred and twenty yards on the right of the road, are the remains of Hard Knott Castle, which is supposed to have been anciently a fortress of great importance. [quotes Hutchinson's note that some stone from the fort has been taken away for local buildings]
From Hard Knott Castle, there is a magnificent scene of Sca Fell and the Pikes, supported by the immense buttresses rising from the Esk. On the left, is in view, the sea, and all the pleasing intermediate objects.
Nearly at the bottom of the hill, on the right, is the sheep farm, called Brotherill Keld. On the contrary side of the river, and opposite to this farm, is Toes, the property and residence of Mr Thomas Towers. Brotherill Keld belongs to Edward Stanley, Esq. of Ponsonby, and is tenanted by Mr Joseph Rogers.
...
Few of the Cumberland, Westmorland, or Lancashire mountain estatesmen, as they are here termed, are so princely in their flocks, as to possess 4000 sheep. The writer has not heard of one; and 3000 is a number to which few flocks extend. There are, perhaps not three other adjoining sheep walks in the above countries, on which so great a number of sheep are kept, as at Toes, Brotherill Keld, and Black Hall. Mr William Tyson, of Black Hall (one mile south of Cockley Beck) in his life time, had under his care upwards of 2000 sheep, partly his own, and the rest rented. Mr Roger's flock does not amount to 3000, all taken with the land; Mr Towers's, all his own property, are something short of 2000. The stock of the truly mountain shepherd varies little; reduction is chiefly occasioned by high prices, and severe winters:- accumulation by mild seasons, and low prices.
[gives the numbers of sheep held by various Lakeland farmers] Mr Thomas Towers, above mentioned, perhaps takes charge, on his own land, of a greater number than any other individual; and that number is less than 2000. ...
In Eskdale and Seathwaite, the fell lands bearing a much larger proportion to the bottom lands than those in other places, the shepherds are of necessity compelled in the winter season to deny their sheep any other sustenance than such as is produced on the mountains. During half the year, the upper regions of these scanty pastures are covered with snow; then the rounds of duty to be performed by the shepherds and their assistants are almost incredibly laborious. Drifts of snow, produced by storms and hurricanes, overwhelm and sometimes prove fatal to the sheep; but out of which they are usually regained; the place being first marked by the sagacious dog. There are many instances of sheep being taken alive from these snowy graves, after being buried in them for three weeks. In the most inclement seasons, except in Seathwaite and Eskdale, the sheep are conducted to the intacks (large pastures observed on the sides of hills), there they are fed twice a day with hay.
[Green here suggests that the information he quotes elsewhere on sheep farming from Richard Warner's "Tour Through the Northern Counties...", published in 1802 may have been derived from Eskdale or Seathwaite- but as Warner did not visit either place, this seems unlikely]
Summer is the shepherd's holiday; then they have little trouble with their sheep. Preparitory to their being shorn, they are washed. This washing takes place towards the end of June; and the shearing, which is performed in the farm yard, commences in the middle of July. For the double purpose of preventing the rot and promoting the growth of the wool, the sheep, not only in Seathwaite and Eskdale, but in all other parts among the lakes, are conducted to the lower lands, and there profusely anointed with a salve, composed of tar and fresh butter. In Seathwaite and Eskdale there are a greater proportion of sheep and lambs annually lost than in places where they are foddered, particularly lambs; the ewes remaining on the fells during the lambing season. Those in other dales are conducted to the fields and meadows, and when the lambs are two months old, they, with their dams, are driven to the mountains. It is remarkable that when the sheep are returned to their elevated pastures, that they betake themselves to the same ground from which they had for a time been detached. Sometimes, though rarely, a sheep will stray from the flock "and mingle upon the mountains" with those belonging to a neighbour; but these are rarely lost; the owner is presently apprized of the foundling, and it is taken home at the annual feasting of the shepherds, who meet for the purpose of business; and among other branches to give each man his own.
...
Brotherill-keld and Toes are planted each a short distance from the river Esk, half a mile above the bridge over which the Kendal and Whitehaven road passes. Hence it is through the romantic vale of Esk, out of which rise rocky knolls, most charmingly enriched with trees, and bordered by considerable uplands. On the left, on the side of the hill called Birker, is Birker force, a singular water-fall, noticed in the early part of this work. Not far from the church, which is on the left, a road turns on the right leading by Burnmoor Tarn to Wastdale Head. A little on the road, by pursuing the directions which may be had from neighbouring houses, the pedestrian may cross a hill into Miterdale, and thence, over the southern end of the Screes, to Latterbarrow, where there is a grand view of Wast Water. ...
A little beyond Eskdale chapel, on the left, over the river, stands Dale Garth Hall, the property of Edward Stanley, Esq., of Ponsonby. [quotes Hutchinson on Dalegarth] Dale Garth Hall is an excellent object for the exercise of the pencil. That awful chasm enclosing a water-fall called Stanley Gill, is a little way from Dale Garth Hall. It is well worth attention and may be seen by application at the hall. Stanley Gill has already been described.
A mile beyond Dale Garth Hall a road turns on the left, and having crossed the Esk and passed a few houses called Yesterfield, it ascends steeply to a common, at the end of which is Ulpha Kirk House ...
In a direct line south from Dale Garth Hall, but perhaps three miles by Yesterfield, on ground of considerable elevation, is Devoke Water, a lake, in the middle of which is an island. The immediate boundaries of this lake are humble; but the high mountains of Eskdale, Wastdale, and Coniston, are in view from its western side. Devoke Water has the finest trout known in the North, for size, redness, and flavour.
A little beyond the last deviation from the Eskdale road by Santon Bridge to Wast Water, and upwards of seventeen miles from Ambleside, one turns on the left to Muncaster Castle and to Ravenglass.
At Loukay Hall the road crosses the river Mite. Twenty miles from Ambleside it reaches Santon Bridge, at which there is a public house. Short of the Bridge, a road turns off by Irton Hall to Ravenglass. ...
Muncaster Castle is the ancient family seat of the Penningtons, who have resided there and at other neighbouring buildings, from the conquest to the present day. "It stands on the north side of the river Esk, fronting to the south and west. The vale of Esk is recreative; the Castle commands an extensive land and sea prospect. Pleasant walks and gardens about the house and park. [quotation adapted from Housman's notes in Hutchinson]"
Muncaster Castle is inhabited by Lord Lindsey, who married the daughter of the late Lord Muncaster, by whom that noble mansion was very much improved.
Ravenglass is a small but ancient sea-port town, situate on a bay formed by the conflux of the rivers Irt, Mite, and Esk, and is famous for the best oysters on the coast. It has little trade, though possessing every advantage for that purpose. Its market is on Saturday. The writer admits with Mr Hutchinson, that "The little town of Ravenglass has a good inn for travellers; made agreeable to us by the civility of the owners." Here is a free school, founded by a Cook to the Pennington family.
Between Ravenglass and Devoke Water, are the ruins of the city of Barnscar. [quotes the Rev. Aaron Marshall's description of Barnscar from Hutchinson]"
Volume 2, page 317- contains a description of a walk up Scafell Pike from Wasdale Head in September 1816, by Green with Jonathan Otley, guided, at least initially, by their host Thomas Tyson. Otley, who lived at Keswick, was an important figure in the "opening-up" of the Lakes, providing among other things the improved map which accompanied Green's Guide. I have omitted the initial slog up from Wasdale Head, and most of the detailed dscription of the view from the summit:
"Perhaps the whole of this extended mass, with all its various summits, may with propriety be called Scafell; and Great End probably had its name as being originally considered a part of that mountain.
Of this combination the Wastdale shepherds term that part, which is south of Mickle Door, Scafell: and the highest part on the north east, the Pikes. But the Borrowdale shepherds call this elevated point, the High Man, on Scafell, to distinguish it from other heaps of stones nearer Borrowdale, denominated by them, the Pikes. The writer thinks that to prevent a confusion in names, the highest of these points, would in propriety be termed, the High Man, and be thereby known from the Langdale Pikes, which are frequently called the Pikes, unaccompanied by Langdale, a word denoting their local habitation.
...
After various traverses the course in a grand sweep to the right, at the top of stupendous rocks, turns again to the left, and alternately over stony impediments, and a rich velvet, like moss, the food of the Reindeer, to the summit of the Pikes, or High Man. The High Pike, or Man, is 3160 feet above the level of the sea. The lower Pike, is about 250 yards south east of the High Man, or Pike, and only about 3100 feet above the salt water level.
This is the most sublime and commanding elevation in England, and happy where we in our day, for the enjoyment of the objects there displayed. The whole encircling horizon being free from cloud, and excepting the ridge extending from Wanthwaite Crags, towards Helvellyn, from amalgamating vapours; but to the west a portion ofthe vast extent of the country was brilliantly illuminated. The sea and the rivers meandering to it from the mountains glittered resplendently in the noontide sun.
Westward lies Scafell, which Janus like, being double faced, here presents his roughly marked front; Eskdale and Wasdale enjoy his smooth and smiling face... On the right of Bowfell in a number of sharp points, are displayed, the Fells of Coniston, Little Langdale and Seathwaite; the Old Man starting above the rest. Birks, in Eskdale, [i.e. Birker Fell?] though inferior in height to these its eastern neighbours as rising from lower land, has an imposing appearance. More remote is Devoke Water, and at an extensive distance, Black Coom ... Terminating the charming vale of Esk, appear the rivers Esk, Mite, and Irt; all meeting and forming a bay at Ravenglass, at the mouth of which the beach is seen verging southward, and on the north, till arrested by the intervention of Scafell; on the right of which it reappears...
The summit of Scafell in a straight line is about twelve hundred yards distant from the higher Pike; but the line of travel from one summit to the other, is over a painfully ruggid passage, and of a length not less than two miles. ...
On the 7th of June, 1815, Mr Otley, with Mr Edward Birkett, guide and fisherman, left Keswick at five in the morning, and having breakfasted at Rosthwaite, journied to Seathwaite, from which they then ascended to Sty Head, and Sprinkling Tarns, gaining the High Man by the way just described.
From the High Man Mr Otley and I descended, and at the end of half a mile, winding among and over large stones, came to Mickle Door. The footing at this door is grassy, and its middle a sharp ridge, from which, through immense rocks, is an opening on the south west to wastdale head; and on the south east over the heads of Eskdale, and Seathwaite, to the Coniston mountains, on either hand grand, romantic, and awfully interesting.
The Crags on the south west, though seeming frightfully to oppose all passage, have been ascended as the readiest way to the top of Scafell, and amongst other adventurers by Mr Thomas Tyson, of Wastdale Head, and Mr Towers, of Toes: but Messrs. Otley, and Birkett, contented themselves by proceeding for some distance, in the direction of Eskdale, to a deep fissure, through which they scrambled to the top of Scafell, and thence descended to Wasdale Head, a decent days march for a man like Birkett, then 66 years of age. ...
From Mickle Door we passed steeply down hill, towards Eskdale, on the way taken to Scafell the year before by the two guides. In front we had an extraordinary prospect of the Coniston mountains, which with an appropriate foreground of rock; arranged the whole into a superb and masterly composition. This part of the journey was steep and varied, sometimes grassy, but frequently over rough Crags, having the vast and ponderous rocks of Scafell on the right, and the base of the lowest of the Pikes here, called Broad Crag on the left.
As we proceeded Eskdale opened on the eye, and exhibited besides others, its mighty and storm beaten barriers, Ill Crag, Great End, and Bow Fell. At the foot of this declivity is the road from Borrowdale, by Sty Head, and Sprinkling Tarns, and Esk Haws, to Eskdale. Towards this latter place, the track is for some time in a tolerably straight line, and on an easy fall to steeper ground, whence in circuitous windings it is lowered to a picturesque flat, on which it is half a mile to Toes.
Toes is a capital farm house, erected by Mr John Towers, father of Mr Thomas Towers, the present proprietor... The grounds rising from Toes are agreeably spread over with wood...
It was a mild and pleasant evening when we arrived at Toes, where we were kindly received; but the following morning was dark and wet, and the craggy steeps the objects of our anxious gaze, were wrapped in impenetrable gloom, notwithstanding which, in hopes of change, we determined to return to Ambleside..."
