ALLOM & PICKERING'S ESKDALE
"Westmorland, Cumberland, Durham and Northumberland Illustrated" (originally published in three volumes, 1838-9) is not a guide book, or even a conventional topgraphical description. However, Thomas Rose's text does describe a great many features of the area in its haphazard way- and this is a rare chance for modern eyes to see it in conjunction with the more familiar illustrations, from paintings by Thomas Allom and George Pickering.
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[Picture by George Pickering, engraved by J. Varrall, 1839] The Frontispiece of this volume presents a picture of mountain scenery, unsurpassed, perhaps, in the world, for picturesque grandeur and sublime effect. Many a Swiss and Alpine prospect accounted "beautiful exceedingly," would sink into insipidity beside it. A wonderfu1 variety exists in all its features, from the small fragments of rock in the foreground, to the mountainous acclivities, multiform and vast, that rise above each other, and form the boundary of vision. The happy arrangement also of clouds and light produces an astonishing effect: the deep tone which pervades the view on the left side, and loses the lofty pikes in a dense mass of vapour, gives vastness to the nearest hills; while the burst of light in the centre veils the far off mountain tops in splendid contrast. A breadth of shadow then descends a broken precipice on the right, and, extending over foliage of an alpine character, forms a judicious and highly effective separation between the foreground and the distance.
This delineation exhibits the stupendous scenery of Eskdale, observed from the vicinity of Dalegarth, and looking towards the vast mountain of Scawfell. The vale of the Esk, divided into beautiful inclosures, terminating in wooded eminences, and watered by the river whence it takes its name, reposes on the bosom of stupendous rocks, including Bowfell, the Screes, and the mountain before named. The most perfect idea of peace and security associates with this locality, where nature has concentrated richness and beauty within the sanctuary of the hills.
--- "the eye can only see
Broken mass of cold gray stone;
Never yet was place so lone
Yet the heart hath many a mood
That would seek such solitude."
[Picture by Thomas Allom, engraved by J.C. Bentley, 1838] Proceeding from Keswick, the road to this romantic defile, whence is obtained a close and fearful view of Scawfell Pikes, lies through Rossthwaite, Borrowdale, and Seathwaite.
From Seathwaite, a deep and winding path marked by a bed of stones, leads across Sty-head, which forms a slack between the two mountains of Scawfell and Great Gavel. The top of this head is not more than half so high as either of those mountains, and is comparatively level for about a mile, so as to form a narrow valley between them. When approaching Scawfell Pikes, the road becomes rocky and boggy, and is traversed with difficulty. Passing the mountain of Great End, one of the elevations of Scawfell, the tourist arrives at the proposed point, and stands on the brink of a precipice, opposite the Pikes, and hanging midway between the summit and the base. "Immediately in front of us," says Mr. Baines, in his Companion to the Lakes, "that mountain 'reared his mighty stature.' We saw him at a single glance, from the verdant tract of Wasdale at his foot, to the overhanging precipices, crowned by a conical pile of stones, which indicate the head of the Pikes, and the highest summit in England. The side forms one long concave sweep, becoming gradually steeper as it ascends, till the highest part rises in perpendicular crags, like a mountain battlement." There is a simple grandeur in the view, which is deeply impressive.
[Picture by Thomas Allom, engraved by H. Bond, 1834] Birker Force, sometimes named Stanley Gell, is situated in Eskdale, at the distance of about seven miles east by north from Ravenglass. Dale-Garth Hall, in the immediate neighbourhood, now a farm-house, was formerly the manorial residence. The present proprietor of the manor is Edward Stanley, Esq., of Ponsonby Hall, to whose judicious efforts the tourist is under much obligation, for improving the beauty of Birker Cascade, and opening approaches to it, whence its peculiar character is most effectively displayed. The visitor traverses the plantations in the vicinity of this torrent, and discovers in his road several picturesque falls before he arrives at the one under review. After crossing the bridge, a road opens through the plantation, leading to a platform, whence a full view of the fall is obtained. The height of the fall is comparatively inconsiderable; but the characteristic features of the scene it presents, differ so remarkably from those of any other in this neighbourhood, that the tourist will be highly gratified with the spectacle. The rocks in which it is situated, assume a pointed and glacier-like appearance; and the fir and larch trees which cluster round their bases, unite with them in producing a truly Alpine effect. Indeed, such another scene is not to be met with in the lake district, wherein the most admired features of the continental picturesque are blended with the rich and varied forms that compose an English landscape.
[Picture by George Pickering, engraved by T. Jeavons, 1839] Muncaster Castle, the residence of the Right Honourable Lowther Augustus John Pennington, Lord Muncaster, is a handsome structure, delightfully situated on the north side of the Esk river. A spacious park and beautiful walks and gardens lie in the vicinage of the edifice. It commands an extensive prospect towards the south-west, of land and marine scenery. The predecessor of the noble lord covered the neighbouring hills with forest-trees, and introduced into his pastures a breed of cattle of acknowledged superiority.
The present possessor is a lineal descendant of the family of Peunington, who have enjoyed the Muncaster estate from the period of the Norman conquest. The honour of knighthood was conferred on many of this house for their distinguished valour in the field.
The illustrative view is taken from the ancient city of Barnscar, some extensive ruins lying on the south side of the. Esk. No historical documents are in existence, to throw light on the origin of these remains. Tradition ascribes the foundation to the Danes, who are said to have gathered for its inhabitants the men of Drig, and the women of Beckermont; and the old popular saying, "Let us go together like lads of Drig and lasses of Beckermont," is gravely urged in confirmation of the tale. "This place is about three hundred yards long, from east to west; and one hundred broad, from north to south; it is walled round, save at the east end, nearly three feet in height. There appears have been a long street, with several cross ones: the remains of house-steads within the walls are not very numerous; but on the outside they are innumerable, especially at the south side and west end. About the year 1730, a considerable quantity of silver coin was discovered in the ruins of one of the houses, concealed in a cavity formed in a beam."
[Picture by Thomas Allom, engraved by A. Le Petit, 1838] Sty Head Tarn is a small elevated lake in the neighbourhood of the mountain whence it takes its name. It forms one of the sources of the Derwent river, which is here reduced to an insignificant rivulet. Above the tarn, at a dread elevation, rises the towering acclivity of Great End, one of the summits of Scawfell.
The extreme elevation of Sty Head forms a rocky plain, nearly half a mile in extent, and environed by a circle of steep slaty rocks. From one side of this crag, the eye looks down with terror; much of the scenery around the place being calculated to inspire emotions of the most awful description. On the opposite side, a pleasing prospect unfolds itself, comprising the valley and village of Wastdale, with the lake of Wastwater, and a back ground of stupendous mountains. The pleasure with which the tourist surveys the latter scene, is, however, in a good measure lost in the overpowering sensation of danger, arising from a view of the path by which he must descend. Above him rise tremendous hills, whose bases appear to unite; beneath lies a precipice, which the human eye can scarcely fathom, and along its sides winds the narrow and almost perpendicular path, whence, by one false step, the traveller would be precipitated into the gulf.
The mountain of Scawfell is the highest in England, and ascends in an extensive concave sweep to the elevation of three thousand one hundred and sixty-six feet above the level of the sea. Frightful precipices surround the summits, on the highest of which is a conical pile of stones, thrown together during a trigonometrical survey of the country. The principal summits are called Mickle Door, and Scawfell; the latter is most easily visited from Seathwaite, and the former from Mardale or Eskdale. The ascent of this mountain is more difficult than that of Skiddaw or Helvellyn, the peaks being composed of vast stones, with scarcely any appearance of vegetation. The persevering pedestrian will, however, find himself amply repayed for all his toils, by the rich and diversified prospects which open to his view when he has attained the most elevated points. When the atmosphere is free from vapours, and the hill from mists, the extent of country which the eye can traverse is truly wonderful.
[Picture by Thomas Allom, engraved by A. Le Petit, 1838] In Cumberland are two rivers of the name of Esk: one of which, after flowing through the beautiful valley of Eskdale, continues its course, till it at length falls into the sea at Ravenglass.
At the head of Eskdale, some remains of a Roman fortress are still visible. The scenery of the vale comprises some of the most picturesque objects in the lake district, including Birker Force and Stanley Gill. A few dispersed dwellings are scattered in the valley, surrounded by rocky knolls, beautifully enriched with trees, and bordered by uplands, on which large flocks of sheep graze in undisturbed quiet.
The ready and powerful aid constantly afforded by the mountain streams, has naturally led to the erection of many water-mills in this romantic district; one of these forms a prominent object in the present Illustration.
Amongst the choice morceaux provided in this seat of the picturesque for the gratification of the pictorial gourmand, few can be met with more suitable for artistic effect than Eskdale Mill. Free from all stiffness of outline and architectural precision, its rude appearance harmonizes well with the rich accompaniments that nature has cast around it. The wheel and stream, the rocky knolls and clustering foliage, and the glimpse obtained of the upland pasturages, combine together with amazing effect, and produce a picture richer in composition than any that might be wrought from the artist's imagination.