Eskdale in Sylvan's Handbook, 1847

ESKDALE IN SYLVAN'S HANDBOOK, 1847

The anonymous "Sylvan's Pictorial Handbook to the English Lakes", published by John Johnstone in 1847, was quite an up-market production, peppered with engravings and, unusually for that date, map pages relating to the text sections. These were probably based on the work of Jonathan Otley; likewise the idea of separate chapters for the main mountain ascents (here Scaw Fell).

After the tourist has traced the stream from Seathwaite, and gone over the beautiful white stepping-stones, and past Cockley Beck to the Three Shire-Stones at its source from Wrynose, he may either take the road to Eskdale, passing along the base of Hard Knott, half a mile south of Cockley Beck Bridge, or Cockley Brig, as the dalesmen call it, to Esk Bridge; or, he may return to Ulpha, through some of the most wild and beautiful scenery along the valley of the Duddon, called Dunnerdale.
From Ulpha the road to Eskdale lies over a desolate Moor, abounding in peat. Passing through the village of Crosbythwaite, having in view Hest and Birkby Fells on the left, at the base of which runs a tributary of the Duddon; Birker and Harter Fells on the right. About three miles from Ulpha, a road branches off to the right, leading to the village of Bout in Eskdale. Stanley Gill, engraving by Thomas Gilks It crosses the stream of Stanley Gill, known also by the name of Dalegarth Force, which is a tributary of the Esk, and enters it half a mile from the fall; it is situated in the grounds of Mr. Stanley of Ponsonby. The grounds are well laid out, and have several summer-houses, from whence interesting views may be obtained of the fall. It flows from the fells through a narrow wooded ravine, and is formed of an upper and lower fall, altogether about sixty feet in height: this fall is remarkable for the beautiful rocky heights through which it passes. Perhaps the surrounding beauties are greater than any of falls in this district. A guide to the fall may be obtained at the farm-house, formerly Dalegarth Hall.
Birker Force is also a very beautiful fall, in the immediate neighbourhood, and is another tributary of the Esk, flowing from a small tarn in the fells, entering it near the little chapel. This fall is the same height as Stanley Gill (sixty feet), with the scenery around very similar, but rather more woody: the larch and fir clustering from the rocks, give it a beautiful Alpine appearance; and by some it is preferred to Stanley Gill [this sentence may be the result of careless research using books which give Stanley Ghyll the name Birker Force]. The Esk is a beautifully transparent stream, with a rough stony bottom, whose wooded banks, lofty fells, and numerous falls which the river makes in its course, present a variety of picturesque scenes, which the artist and the lover of rural scenery cannot fail to admire. About a mile and a half from Birker Force, the road crosses the river, and passes over Hard Knott to Cockley Beck Bridge, the source of the Duddon, and Langdale. Near this spot, at a point called Esk Hause, pronounced Ash Course, may be seen the winding course which the Esk takes for about five miles, leading to Scaw Fell, from whence it flows, and overlooking Burnmoor. At this point also may he seen the whole of Borrowdale; with Derwent Water, and Skiddaw in the distance. In returning to the village of Bout, we cross another small tributary flowing from Stony Tarn. At Bout, a road over Burnmoor leads to Wast Water and Scaw Fell, about six miles distant, passing near the stream flowing from Burumoor Tarn, which enters the Esk half a mile from the village. This way of approaching Wast Water is inconvenient, except in fine weather, as the moor is boggy ground and principally used for peat, although it presents finer views of the mountains than from any other approach, except from the foot of Wast Water. About a mile and a half from Bout to the left of this road, are the remains of a druidical circle, and on the right near, is Eel Tarn.
Tourists desiring to stop at Eskdale for a day or so, will find homely accommodation at Bout, or at the King of Prussia, about two miles distant, which is about the centre of Eskdale, on the high road from Ulpha. Bleaberry Fell with its tarn rises in front, and is backed by Muncaster Fell. At the base of Birkby Fell, situated south of Eskdale, is a small tarn about half a mile long, called Devoke Water, with a rocky island in its centre, which flows into the Esk. About a mile from the bridge near this tarn, are ruins which extend 300 yards one way, and 100 the other, called "the remains of the ancient city of Barnscar," supposed to have been a Danish city; it is well worth a visit from the antiquary. On the opposite shore, about a mile and a half distant, is Muncaster Castle, on a wood-crowned eminence, surrounded by its park. It is the ancient seat of the family of the Penningtons, earls of Muncaster. The neighbourhood has been greatly improved by the late proprietor.
The river Esk, after passing through a beautifully rich and cultivated valley, enters the Irish sea near Ravenglass, having pursued a course of about sixteen miles. Ravenglass is situated at the confluence of the rivers Esk, the Mite, and the Irt, and is a small market-town and sea-port, nineteen miles distant from Ulverston and sixteen from Whitehaven. The river Mite flows in a valley called Miterdale, situated between Eskdale and Wastdale. Through the latter, the river Irt flows in its passage from Wast Water: the former takes its rise in the Screes, about eight miles from Ravenglass.
Eskdale is often visited from Wast Water, by crossing the Irt near the village of Strands, and passing Santon Bridge. The direct road to Ambleside is through Eskdale to Langdale, over Hard Knott, already alluded to, passing the remains of the Roman fortification called Hard Knott Castle; where the tourist may have another long and lingering look at the scenery of the Duddon, the road leading over Cockley Beck Bridge into Langdale. The whole distance from "The King of Prussia" in Eskdale to Ambleside is about fourteen miles.

ASCENT OF SCAW FELL
The prospect from the summit of the mountain range denominated Scaw Fell presents scenes so rich and varied, so vast and commanding, that the tourist would be omitting one of the most interesting sights, were he to leave its rocky heights unvisited. The ascent is much more steep and rugged than any of the other mountains, and can only be accomplished on foot. There are four distinct summits to this mountain; the highest, called "the Pikes," is 3166 feet above the level of the sea, and 3000 feet above Wast Water; the next in height is Scaw Fell, being 3100 feet, the southern extremity overlooking Burnmoor and Eskdale; Great End, the northern point, rises above Styhead; and Lingmell from Wastdale. The two principal summits are separated by a deep chasm, 1200 feet wide, called Mickledore. On the top of "the Pikes" was erected, in 1826, a large pile of stones and a flagstaff, to mark it out as the highest point. The ascent may be made from any of the surrounding valleys, but as the ruggedness of the ground, and distance from any inn, together with the liability of being caught in a fog, present obstacles to an out-of-the-way ascent, it is usually made from Sty-head, starting early in the morning from Seathwaite (in Borrowdale), or from Wastdale head. From Sty-head Tarn the course of the stream must be followed to Sprinkling Tarn; which, being kept to the left, the pass of Esk Hause will have to be ascended, before arriving at the summit of Great End; and by continuing along the ridge from Great End, and passing two small hollows, the highest point, or "The Pikes," may be attained.
The summits consist chiefly of large blocks of stone, piled one upon another, with lichens, and tufts of moss, which are the only vegetation. Scaw Fell is composed principally of a flinty slate, which assumes the most fantastic shapes and the most varying and brilliant colours, over the tops of the mountain. In one direction, over Borrowdale, we see the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite, with the Scottish mountains and Solway Frith: in another, we overlook Langdale and Windermere, to the summit of Ingleborough in Yorkshire. From the Pikes, the valley of the Duddon may be traced to the sands and the sea. The extent of the view, which includes the country as far as the Lancashire coast, the whole district of Furness, and, in clear weather, the mountains of North Wales, beautifnl as it is, is nothing to the nearer view of the surrounding mountains, which, from their varying summits, and dark intervening valleys, completely eclipse, by their wild grandeur, the more extended views. The descent may be made from the Pikes into Wastdale, by keeping in a south-westerly direction along the course of a stream flowing into Wast Water at the southern base of Ling Mell. The valleys to be seen from the summit of this mountain have been compared by Wordsworth to the spokes of a wheel, all diverging from Scaw Fell, and from whence the rivers and lakes again diverge, with some few exceptions.