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COCKLEY BECK
From Cockley Beck there is a peep of Scafell over the Mosedale Valley- a name, by the way, which is of frequent occurrence in the lake district, and may generally be accepted as an index to dreariness, the only valley possessing it, which is redeemed by grandeur, being that from Wasdale Head to Black Sail and the Pillar.
At the farmhouse at Cockley Beck the tourist may refresh himself on "temperance" principles previous to the ascent of Hardknott, which is short, but steep in places. The pass is nearly 1,300 feet high, but owing to the elevated position of Cockley Beck itself, only involves an ascent of about 600 feet. It is the watershed between the Duddon and Esk valleys.
From Cockley Beck, roads down the Duddon valley, on both sides of the stream, strike off to the left. They pass through a succession of gates. As they descend, the scenery becomes more varied and beautiful. The distances from Cockley Beck are: to Seathwaite Church, 4 miles; "Travellers' Rest" Inn, Ulpha, 7 miles; Broughton-in-Furness, 12 miles.
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HARDKNOTT
As the road ascends Hardknott, the view down the Duddon valley expands. From the top of the pass the sea is visible, and the prospect of the rich sylvan beauty of Eskdale is most refreshing after the treeless wilderness we have been confined to for the last hour or so. The Scafell group rises majestically on the right hand. About 100 yards to the right of the road and a short distsnce before enclosed ground is again reached, a quadrangular fence of loose stones marks the position of what is reputed to be the remains of a Roman camp, now called Hardknott Castle.
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THE WOOLPACK
The Esk is first reached and crossed a little more than a mile beyond Hardknott Castle, and soon after we reach the Woolpack Inn, a welcome and comfortable little hostelry, where oftentimes the 'lost' on Scafell first find rest for the soles of their feet. On the way the gracefully tapering peak of Bowfell, heading the valley on the right, may remind the passer by of Snowdon at its best.
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UPPER ESKDALE
(1) Those who wish to explore the beauties of Upper Eskdale en route should take a track to the right, just short of a wood, and about 100 yards before reaching the gate at the bottom of the Hardknott pass. Thence they may either cross the Esk by a foot-bridge at the first farm house, Butterilkel, about 1/4 mile after leaving the road and proceed by the farm house opposite, 3/4 mile, to the two falls described in the ascent of Scafell Pike from Eskdale, or they may continue along the right hand bank of the river to the falls on the main stream, 2 miles further. These falls lie just beyond the junction of the streams descending from Scafell and Bowfell respectively. A bridge facilitates the passage from one stream to the other. They are as perfect little pictures of wild mountain torrents as can be imagined. By following the western, or Scafell branch, Esk Hause may be reached in from 1 to 1 1/2 hours, and by the eastern, or Bowfell one, the depression south of Bowfell may be crossed at the Three Tarns, and a descent made into Great Langdale; but neither of these trackless wildernesses should be traversed except in pefectly clear weather.
The return is by the farmsteads of Taw House and Bird How to the main road, nearly a mile beyond the point at which it was left, and 3/4 mile short of the Woolpack Inn.
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DALEGARTH FORCE
(2) Perhaps the best way for the tourist by this route to bring in Dalegarth Force (Stanley Gill) is to cross the Esk by the lane which diverges to the left a few yards beyond the Woolpack. By this means he will avoid the necessity of going and returning by the same route from Boot. After crossing the bridge over the river take the right hand road, leading up to a farm-house. Proceed thence by a track more or less near the stream, which passes near the foot of Low Birker Force, a conspicuous but featureless fall, and leaves another farm-house a few yards on the left. It then descends to and crosses the Stanley Gill beck some way below the force and passes on through a couple of gates and across an intervening field on to the road leading from Boot to the Duddon Valley. The entrance to the force is some way up the road on the left; but to get the key you must descend to the right, to the bottom of the valley where, just before reaching the bridge, you will see a notice directing to a oottage. You may have the key and a guide or the key alone, but a guide is more to be desired than is generally the case, because even when the grounds are entered in which the fall is situated, the way to it is somewhat difficult to find, and the visitor is apt to spend his time in looking for, instead of at it. The general direction is as follows:-
Ascend the road for about half a mile from the cottage till you oome to a padlocked gate on the left, opening into a wood. Pass through this and follow the main track for about five minutes as far as a small rill, which is a tributary of the Dalegarth Force beck. The path across this leads up on to the high moorland above the fall and affords some fine peeps down the abyss into which it tumbles. Pedestrians proceeding Coniston way may shorten their journey by crossing the moorland onto the road. For the fall itself do not cross the rill but descend by the path which keeps it en the nght hand side, till you reach its junction with the main stream, whence the track up to the force is unmistakeable.
The height of the fall is 60 feet, less than that of many other well-known forces in the district, but here again, it is neither the height nor the volume of water which constitutes the attraction, but the "setting," and in this respect the scene is justly regarded as the finest of its kind in Lakeland. The cliffs on either side are precipitous, the foliage rich and varied, and greatly enhanced by the variety of exquisitely fresh and luxuriant ferns which drape the purple crags from head to foot.
The return route may be varied by crossing the three bridges which span the stream, and then proceeding with it on the right-hand till you reach a gate leading into the field through which the main road was entered on the way from the Woolpack. After re-entering the road, desced and cross the bridge over the Esk, and a short distance further turn to the right up the main road, opposite the school-house. Then by the first lane to the left you will reach the Mason's Arms at Boot, half a mile from the school-house, or by turning to the left at the school-house you will be at the King of Prussia Inn in less than 1 1/2 miles. Both are small inns with limited accommodation.
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EEL TARN
(3) From the Woolpack the pedestrian may cut off the Boot corner, on his way to Wasdale Head via Burnmoor Tarn, by climbing behind the house to a peat track leading up to Eel Tarn, a lonely little sheet of water. Leaving this on the right, make for the Burnmoor Beck on the left-hand, across which you will find a foot bridge in less than 1 1/2 miles from the tarn, and a little distance short of Burnmoor Tarn. For the rest of the route see the description of it from Boot, below.
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BOOT & BURNMOOR
A mile beyond the Woolpack is the village of Boot, lying a little to the right of the main road, on a beck which descends from Scafell and Burnmoor Tarn. Here is another little inn, the Masons' Arms. Boot, on account of its iron ore, has recently been promoted to the honour of a place in "Bradshaw," there being a useful little branch line from it to Ravenglass, on the west coast, with about 5 trains a day in each direction.
Hence the short pony track by Burnmoor Tarn reaches Wasdale Head in about 6 miles. Starting from the Masons' Arms, cross the beck and leave the station on the left. Climb the hill for a short distance. and then pass through a gate on the right into a field track. The cart road is simply a peat track, and works away to the left. After this you keep the Burnmoor Beck at a distance of from 50 to 300 yards on your right the whole way to Burnmoor Tarn, where you cross it just where it issues from the lake. On your way you leave a keeper's house, some little way on the left, beyond which the path is rather intermittent, but a pile or two of stones mark the doubtful places. The route is very dreary at first, but as it advances the Pillar range in front breaks the monotony, and when the highest point of the journey is reached. a little way beyond the tarn, and the fells surrounding Wasdale Head, including Great Gable and Kirk-fell. come into full view on one side, and Wastwater and the Screes on the other, ample atonement is made for the previous dulness. On reaching the Lingmell Beck at the foot of the pass it is better to keep to the left, along some rough pebbly ground, and cross the main Wasdale stream just above the head of the lake. The direct route is dirty, and involves the passing of one or two streams. It has recently been decided, we believe. that there is a public highway from Boot to Wasdale Head via Burnmoor Tarn. This decision will probably necessitate the making of a good carriage road between the two places.
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BOOT TO THE "KING OF PRUSSIA"
Quitting Boot, we follow the main road down the valley, and arrive in a couple of miles or more at the King of Prussia Inn, close to which the road from the Duddon Valley across Birker Moor converges on the left.
Those who visit Dalegarth Force (Stanley Gill) from Boot. will turn to the left opposite the school-house, half a mile from the hamlet. Then, after crossing the Esk, turn to the right, to the cottage at which the notice board states that the guide and key are to be obtained, and proceed according to the directions given in the route from the Woolpack.
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ESKDALE GREEN
We now cross the railway and proceed past a few scattered cottages called Eskdale Green. The road turns sharply to the left, and crosses the low ridge separating Eskdale from Miterdale. The high ground to the left between the two valleys is Muncaster Fell (757 ft.) The Mite is crossed just before reaching the Bower House Inn about 1 1/2 miles beyond the King of Prussia. Then the road crosses another small col, on the other side of which is the river Irt, flowing out of Wastwater.
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M.J.B. Baddeley's volume on "The English Lake District" in Dulau & Co's "Thorough Guides" lived well up to the series title, and the Eskdale information from the 4th edition (1886) is presented here in three sections.