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APPROACHES: BOOT-WASDALE HEAD
At Drigg there is a comfortable inn, called the Victoria Hotel, close to the station; also an inn at Holmrook, 1 1/2 m. towards Wastwater.
At Boot there is the Mason's Arms with very fair accommodation, some 200 yards from the station, and a smaller inn, the Woolpack, a mile higher up the valley.
At Ravenglass, a small inn, the Queen's Head.
The carriage-road from Boot over the Hardknott and Wrynose passes, formerly hardly traversable by vehicles of any description, has been much improved.
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1. Ravenglass to BootBy adopting this approach, pedestrians may first explore Stanley Gill and the beauties of Eskdale, and then crossing to Strands, see Wastwater to full advantage.
The little Eskdale railway, made for the conveyance of iron ore from Boot, starts from a siding near the main line at Ravenglass. It is of a 3 ft. gauge, and for the first 4 miles runs through Miterdale, skirting the northern slope of Muncaster Fell. The prominent mountain at the head of the valley is Scafell itself, hiding Seafell Pike. After passing the second station, Irton Road, the line crosses the low neck which here separates Miterdale from Eskdale. Hereabouts Harter Fell and the rest of the broken ridge, lying between the Eak and Duddon Vales, become conspicuous in front. Another few miles of rather circuitous and jolty travelling brings us to the "wee" terminus of Boot. The line altogether, primitive though it be, is a real boon to tourists, landing them almost within a stone's throw of some of the finest scenery in the district. The charms of Eskdale are described in the carriage route from Ambleside to Strands. It is sufficient here to say that it is one of the most beautiful and diversified of the valleys of Lakeland, and only requires the improvement of the road to it from Ambleside, over Wrynose and Hardknott, to become one of the most popular.
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ASCENT OF CRINKLE CRAGS & BOWFELL FROM WRYNOSE
[description from Cold Pike onward] And now proceeding on our way, still in a north-westerly direction, we make a slight dip. Soon Great Langdale comes into view on the right, and Eskdale on the left. We leave the highest ridge of Great Knott to our right, and make straight for the first "Crinkle," which is conspicuous before us.
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View from the southernmost CrinkleThe summit reached, fresh scenes appear. Above Eskdale, Devoke Water, with its solitary little island, still gleams. To the right of it, where the valley spreads out into the open sea-board, is the estuary of the Esk, crossed by a many-arched railway bridge. Here lies Ravenglass. Still more to the right, far across the sea, is the Isle of Man, with Snaefell prominent among its heights. In front appear the two Scafells, separated by the ravine of Mickledore- masses of rugged precipice and screes with here and there a few blades of grass to keep alive the adventurous sheep, which spend a happy- go-lucky existence on their desolate sides. Just below us, to the left, the "col," separating the waters of the Duddon from those of the Esk, is very plain. The Old Man, too, has come into view southwards, between the two chief summits of the Seathwaite fells, variously called Carrs, Fairfield, the Old Woman, and the Grey Friar. We confess to be somewhat at "sea" as to the actual identity of these heights, but not satisfied with the poetical subterfuge of calling what we don't know a "huge nameless rock;" we give all the names we have been able to gather from the cognoscenti of the neighbourhood. The sharper peak to the right of the Old Man is Dow Crag. The sandy straggling estuary of the Duddon is very plain to the eye, and the many wreaths of smoke on both sides of it give evidence of the wealth and industry of the Furness district. Over the left shoulder of Wetherlam a strip of Esthwaite Water is visible. Eastward the sharp peak in the distance, directly over the centre of Great Langdale, is Kidsty Pike, and the long-backed ridge next to it on the right, High Street. Between Helvellyn and Fairfield, St. Sunday's Crag appears. Looking northwards, towards the dip between Skiddaw and Saddleback, we see the Stake Pass winding its way into Langstrath and Borrowdale. Take one more look into Eskdale, and, if the day be bright, you will notice a gill running down into its upper reach on this side of Devoke Water. The lower part of this beck is Stanley Gill, which contalns the finest force in the district. A mile or so nearer, on the right of the river, just visible against the trees, is Boot in Eskdale.
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The ridge route to BowfellThere is a steep dip between the first of the Crinkle Crags and the next, which is the highest by some 80 feet. To attain the 1atter, strike a little to the left, and make for a pillar of stones lying in a shght depression to the left of the highest point. Precipices make a straight track impracticable. There is but little change in the prospect, except that Bowfell comes into prominent view. A narrow neck of very small depression connects the second and highest peak with the third one, from which, unless you wish to incur the toil of climbing up and down several more similar heights, without any compensation in the way of fresh views, you will do well to turn down to the left, in the direction of Scafell Pike, for a few minutes, till you double a rather prominent crag, from which to the dip immediately below Bowfell, is rough but simple walking. In this dip are several clear little pools, one in particular near the Eastern declivity- a basin entirely enclosed by rock, suggesting a miniature copy of Lock Coruisk, according to Turner's strangely fictitious representation of that wild Hebridean lake. This is called the Three Tarns. Hence to the top of Bowfell the route is plain enough, up a steep green slope, plentifully bestrewn with rocks and boulders, which, for the last ten minutes or so, constitute the chief roadway. Between them grow grass and heather, and parsley fern, and bog myrtle.
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View from BowfellBowfell is itself a splendid peak, and the view from it highly attractive, though, strangely enough, it only embraces three lakes: Windermere, Esthwaite, and Devoke Water. The Lancashire fells hide Coniston; Scafell Wastwater, and Glaramara Derwentwater. Skiddaw and Saddleback stand out very finely in the north, and their smooth, though marked contour, contrasts finely with the wild ruggedness of Scafell, the Langdale Pikes and the other nearer mountains. The tourist has already, during his walk, become familiar with most of the surrounding objects. One or two fresh ones have, however, appeared. Especially has the view northward opened up. To the left of Skiddaw in that direction are seen the Solway Firth and the Dumfriesshire hills. To the left of them, the smooth red-looking fells are Causey Pike, west of Derwentwater, Eel Crags, and Grasmoor; then again Solway and Scotland. The rocky continuation of Bowfell to the north-west is Hanging Knott; and, beyond it, Great End, the north-eastern buttress of the Scafell ridge. Behind Great End is Great Gable, almost hidden. Esk Hause lies between Hanging Knott and Great End.
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Routes onward from Bowfell to Esk Hause etc.By keeping well upon the ridge, the tourist may, if so inclined, and time permits, continue his journey over Hanging Knott, and joining the Scafell track on Esk Hause, proceed, over Scafell Pikes, to Wasdale head. From Bowfell to Wasdale Head by this route would take from 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. A descent from Esk Hause may also be made to Wasdale by Sty Head, and to Borrowdale by Sty Head or Grain Gill. These routes will be found fully described in the "Ascents of Scafell Pike." [but are omitted from this site]. To the south-west, down Eskdale, there is neither track nor habitation for 5 or 6 miles, the nearest inn being the Woolpack on the Hardknott road, nearly two miles from the foot of the Pass. To reach this would take about 3 hours.
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M.J.B. Baddeley's volume on "The English Lake District" in Dulau & Co's "Thorough Guides" lived well up to the series title, and the Eskdale information from the 4th edition (1886) is presented here in three sections.