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HOW TO CLIMB BROAD STAND-
VICTORIAN STYLE


To Eskdale index 

This extract is taken from Herman Prior's "Guide to the Lake District of England" (7th Ed. 1890). Originally published in the 1860s as a walkers' guide, Prior's work in later editions became one of the first to feature details of rock climbs:

The Broad Stand approach to Scafell, as well as the following one by the Chimney, are both pieces of rock-work, rather difficult even for a qualified climber; and it would be folly in any one to attempt either of them who has either a dizzy head or an untrustworthy hand or foot. For Broad Stand, follow the Mickledore ridge... until it lands you at the angle of the Scafell cliff, and then descend close under the cliff on the left or Eskdale side. About ten yards down on this side is a slanting ledge of the cliff, on which you may step without much difficulty; but this terminates, in a corner too wide to allow of striding round it on to the platform beyond. Continue, therefore the descent under the cliff for 11 yards further, when you reach a fissure in the rock, through which a man of reasonable proportions can worm his way on to a small grassy platform overhanging the scarp of rock formed by the rapid dip of the ground into Eskdale. In the left corner of this platform the edge of rock above it is sufficiently broken to give hand-and-foot hold, turning first left and then right, which lands you on a second and similar platform,- the same to which the long step round the corner would have conducted, if feasible. Here the height of the rock above would be a difficulty, but some larger stones have been piled up at its foot, standing on which, and keeping a firm grip on the rock, you can hoist yourself up it; any failure in the process might easily send the operator bowling over into Eskdale. By these means, you reach a third shelf, smaller and more inclined than the last, from which another short climb places you on a broad, grassy slope extending to the screes of a gully on the left, the lower portion of which forms the 'chimney' ascent, to be presently noticed. Making for these, and ascending in the line of the upper gully, the channel of which is kept from 10 to 20 feet on your left, you reach the top without serious difficulty: there is some little further climbing, but it is much less exposed than the first part of the ascent. The summit reached is, of course, the north cliff of the mountain, overlooking Deep Gill.

Compare this extract with the descriptions by G.T. Lowe and Samuel Taylor Coleridge.

Meanwhile, from the third edition (1889- evidently the work achieved sudden popularity in the late 1880s) here is the ascent of The Chimney, and an interesting note on the descent of Deep Gill:


The Chimney. For this you pass the fissure leading to Broad Stand, and continue descending steeply for 2 min., which brings you to a narrow gully in the rock, with a thread of water trickling down it over moss. This is the cheminée to be ascended, and there is no special diffculty in it until you are near the top. Here the gully, of which the 'chimney' forms the lower section, is effectually blocked for some distance, and the only alternative is to climb out of it by the rock which forms the right wall, and which is about 12 ft. high, the lower six vertical and the upper a steep slant. This, which can only be scaled à la chimney-sweep, is exceedingly difficult, as is also the gymnastic feat of escaping to terra firma from the narrow shelf on which the shoulder-and-hip-work lands you. Assuming the obstacle overcome, you are on the broad grassy slope mentioned in the last ascent, and will proceed as there inducated, following the course of the upper gully from which the chimney descends.

[Deep Gill]: its descent is feasible for some distance; but the Rake end is hopelessly blocked. A detached mass of rock which has broken away from the main cliff at the upper end of the gill, on its right side, is also a striking feature.